Bulma Packs (3) – completed!

The second Bulma pack has been finished!  Now just to pack ’em up and ship ’em out.

Bulma Pack, brown belt

Bulma Pack, blue belt


5 Comments Add yours

  1. cutewormy says:

    These look so cool! :DD can you tell me how you made them or is it secret? ;3


    1. kriscious says:

      It was just a lot of careful measuring and hand stitching to make the outside pretty. If you want obsessive specifics, I’d be happy to share!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. cutewormy says:

        Yeah that would be awesome! ^^
        Materials etc ~~ I need to make some myself for a cosplay and i have no idea how to ^^’


    2. kriscious says:

      MATERIALS: 1/2 yard to 1 yard basic cotton broadcloth for each bag (I bought 1 yard of each main color, but used less than half) plus accent colors, 1 yard sew-in interfacing (again, I used less than half), piped bias tape in colors matching the main bag material, thread matching the main bag material, and then the basics (scissors, needles, sewing pins).

      I made the front, bottom, back, top, and flap all one long piece so I only had to worry about sewing up the sides. I measured it all out (6″ wide: 5″ plus 1/2″ on each edge for length allowance) and marked it with a mechanical pencil. You need two pieces this size, one to be the lining at the end. Another strip, 3″ wide (2″ + 1/2″ on each edge), was made for the sides (I didn’t cut their length because I always get off when hand-sewing, though sewing pins greatly help). Again, mark with a pencil/chalk where the lines need to be sewn.

      The trickiest part is that, if you make the front and sides perfectly straight (same width at the top as the bottom), the bag looks loopy when closed. I tapered the last 1″ before the top on the front and both sides to be shorter by 1/4″ on each side. (On the unmarked length of the 3″ side strip, unless you’re great at evenly hand-sewing, you’re going to have to mark this alteration as you go.) Leave the back, top, and flap the full width.

      I aligned the piping bias tape between the 3″ strip and a bottom edge so that the bias tape would reach up past the top of the bag (when fully sewn) by about 1/2″. Make sure the bias tape is facing so that when you turn it inside out, the piping is on the outside. Then sewn across the bottom-side and then up the front, carefully stitching through the bias tape. The last 1/4″ on the front side, pull the bias tape “inside” (I had to flip the bag inside out to make sure I was pulling it the right way) so that it doesn’t reach all the way to the top.

      When that’s done, continue around from the unfinished edge until you reach the opposite front edge where you pull the tape “in” again.

      Cut your interfacing pieces (again, you’ll have to cut the front and side pieces so that they fit with the minor tapering – if you want to taper more or less, make sure your measurements reflect in your interfacing). With the 5″ square, place it against the back under the edges from the piping tape so that it lays flat against the main material. I used sew-in interfacing and stitched the edges of the piping tape tight against the interfacing (do NOT sew through the outer material; push your needle shallow enough to go through the interfacing almost flush). When fully attached, continue with the interfacing on both sides and on the front.

      Depending on what “buckles” you’re adding, this is the time to adhere them to the front of your bag flap on the outside (so that it doesn’t show on the underside of the flap). For the blue pack, I just wrapped a piece of interfacing in pale blue material and stitched it on. For the brown pack, I sewed a button. Careful to measure their placement.
      This is also the time to add any straps. For Bulma’s packs, I made two straps (like oversized belt loops) wrapped around interfacing, stitched their edges flush onto the back (careful not to sew over the loop part or the belt won’t go through), and pushed the needle all the way through the inside interfacing to “secure” them. They were placed just under the lid on the back side to make sure that adding weight wouldn’t “topple” them.

      For the inner lining, I used the exact same method as for the outer material attaching to the sides except that all sides were 1/8″ shorter (depending on how your bag turned out, you may need to make it a little smaller to fit snug inside) and there was no piping bias tape. When the main part of the lining (bottom/front/back attached to the sides) is sewn up, fit it inside of the bag so that it fits and then pin it so that it sits flush with the edges of the front and both sides.
      PLEASE NOTE: you should have 1/2″ material all the way around the top edge of the pack sticking up over the interfacing. If you sewed it down to the interfacing, no big deal. Take the lining and fold its extra height down to sit flush with the outer side so that all the extra is hidden between the outside of the pack and the lining. THIS IS WHERE THE CAREFUL STITCHING COMES IN.
      Some of this stitching will be visible, so do your best to keep it all hidden. Use a whole lot of tiny stitches and lean it so that what has to be seen is facing into the bag, not out on the front.
      ALSO: For a personal touch, I like to embroider my initials on a tiny tag and sew it into my work. This is optional, obviously, but you would want to attach it before/as you sew in the lining, depending on its placement.

      Ta-da! You’re finished. If there’s anything you didn’t understand, please let me know – and post pictures if you make any so I can see how they come out!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. cutewormy says:

        OMG, thank you so much!! :DD You kind person writing all this for me <3 I will run to the store and try my best! I'll make sure to mention you on my site when i post pictures ;3


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